THE RAW MATERIALS

 

All of my perfumes are handmade from 100% natural essential oils, absolutes, co2 extracts and certified organic undenatured alcohol of the highest quality available on the market.

Although many botanical perfumery materials are often about 1000 to 15000 times more expensive than synthetic ones, each raw material is being very carefully chosen - regardless of price or other issues (like customs procedures with certain postal operators, temporary unavailabilities and so on...) that go along with importing them.  

If one out of ten samples of a certain essence is slightly better, but twice as expensive, it will be the one that is finally being used in the product.

The search for the right thing can sometimes take years and is a costly and extremely time consuming enterprise. Just like a great combo is only going to swing if all it's individuals are equally skilled, one literal drop out can ruin everything. There is no compromise when it comes to quality, even if it's costly. While aromachemicals do usually consist of one molecule, it's natural counterparts are a complex combination of hundreds of molecules. For instance plain artificial Vanillin with one and natural Vanilla with over 250 identified components.

Thus the odour profile of the two could be compared to the plain sound of a plastic keyboard versa the opulent spectrum of a Steinway grand piano. The aroma of the natural materials is simply second to none, oozing natural pheromones. Due to their prohibive cost and often inconsistent and very limited availability, you will unfortunately not find them in industrial products. There are a lot of companies that are creating the impression of selling natural products by terms like "based on the purest and natural essences" and such.

The term "purest" is the most frequent empty shell in terms of perfume. With today's strict (at least in EU) legislation, it is certainly not allowed to use "unpure" materials and doesn't say anything about whether that essence comes from natural or synthetic origin!

A look on the product label does mostly reveal the exact opposite and I heartily recommend to look closely.

 

RAW MATERIALS THAT I USE:

natural essential oils, absolutes, co2 extracts, tinctures and resins, many of them certified organic.

Potable undenatured natural alcohol, also certified organic.

The amount of certified organic raw materials in the product is about 90% or higher.

Animal ingredients:

Ambergris: is an excretion produced by the sperm whale which takes years to cure floating on the sea. It is very expensive, but quite magic and does not harm the whales in any way. 

Africa Stone (Hyraceum): a petrified, sterile and probably thousands of years old excretion of the Rock Hyrax with a Civet- and Castoreum like odour.

Beeswax Absolute.

 

RAW MATERIALS THAT I DO NOT USE:

synthetic fragrance compounds

denaturants

colorants

preservatives

sunscreen chemicals

phtalates

Deer Musk

Civet

Please note that some natural raw materials can contain small amounts of DPG (Dipropylene Glycol) which is added by their producers as a dissolving agent which is technically unavoidable. This is mostly the case with Hyraceum absolute and some Cocoa extracts.

Tested only on voluntary human bunnies.

 

Examples for current bulk prices for NATURAL odorants as used for my own perfumes:

Orris Root: 115000€/kg

Vanilla co2 extract: 70000€/kg

Boronia absolute: 30000€/kg

Rose Oil: 15000/kg

Orange Blossom absolute: 15000€/kg

Ambrette Essence: 15000€/kg

Sandalwood: 7000€/kg

 

Examples for current bulk prices for SYNTHETIC odorants as used for industrial and "niche" perfumes:

Iso-E-Super: 13€/kg (synthetic woody musk)

Galaxolide: 12€/kg (synthetic musk)

Ethylvanillin: 12€/kg (synthetic vanilla)

Methyl Ionone: 30€/kg (synthetic orris molecule)

Sandalore: 30€/kg (synthetic sandalwood molecule)

Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol: 7€/kg (synthetic rose molecule)